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But the real climb is still ahead. A small mountain railway winds its way into Hakonay’s hills. The train zigzags through thick forests, pausing at each switchback as the driver walks to the opposite end to continue the ascent. Higher, warmer, more humid — the scenery unfolds with every turn. Each twist, each stop, each view reminds them: in Hakonay, the journey is as unforgettable as the destination.